Tag: Designing


Stella’s Birds – Stabby Bird (part one)

Starting with feather stitch
Oh dear, congested stitchs, too heavy, wrong textures, wrong everything!

I started Stabby Bird quite simply with a line of feather stitch in the variegated thread, but then, my goodness, I wandered off the path of success and created a sad and congested mess!

I like the padded buttonhole stitch on the leading edge of the wing, but the tangle of fly stitches and feather stitches on the body , and the trellis stitch on the leg – nope, don’t like any of that. It’s too heavy and blocky, it doesn’t provide any light and shade, it just makes the wrong impression. Out it came!

Stabby's wing and you get to see the breast lighter too.

I added a bit to the leading edge of the wing – feather stitch in the variegated thread. I like that, I think it’s fun.

Floral feather stitch on the wing – that’s a stitch I’m very fond of, but don’t often remember. I must do it more often! The top edge of the wing, and the leg, both in feather stitch in a very fine linen thread. It’s a bit pinkier than I had in mind, but it doesn’t draw attention unpleasantly.

Stella’s Birds – Bitey Bird

Mountmellick Thorn Stitch breast of Bitey Bird

I decided that all the birds would have the variegated thread in them, and that it would be used to outline the body as a starting point. In the case of Bitey Bird, I used a single thread (“Watercolours” is separable into three plies, each of them just like a pearl cotton in behaviour) and started with Mountmellick Thorn Stitch. I did a second row to give Bitey a bib (as it were), and while it looks a little stiff as I concentrate on it, it will probably settle nicely when the whole panel is done.

The rest of Bitey was worked during the MathsJam Gathering, and I took no more photos of work in progress, so cue me desperately trying to remember what I did….

Close up of Bitey Bird, who tends towards blue shades, as he was first finished.

So here we go.. Hungarian Braided Chain for the bird’s head and back – see how it’s not such a thirsty stitch as the Mountmellick Thorn, so the colour changes spread out more? Vandyke stitch to separate the feathers, Cretan Stitch for the crest, Coral stitch in various other places.

I had specific areas I planned to make strongly raised, particularly the leading edges of the wings, so in this case I used Buttonhole Stitch, padded with chain stitch. I do love that redundant but highly ornamental spiral!

A few tweaks on Bitey - darker beak and legs

I finished Bitey – to a first approximation! – ten minutes before the formal part of the MathsJam Gathering ended, knowing, however, that various changes would be needed once I had the whole thing before me.

Not much changed, in the end – the beak darker, and outlined rather than solid, and the legs darker too. And now he looks nicely ornamental and joyfully voracious. Just as he should!

Stella’s Birds – A few false starts

Cording Stitch tendril

As anyone who follows my adventures will know, I always expect to improvise and have any number of false starts.

This is Cording Stitch, which is a classic Mountmellick work stitch, so I wanted to include it. I enjoyed stitching it, but once the whole design was stitched, I had Reservations.

I stared for a while, and then decided that it wasn’t working in the context I was using it, somehow it looked too stiff, and the thread didn’t seem like the right colour.

False start with vine leaf

Another false start was when I started the second vine leaf. I was planning originally to have a riot of different stitches across the whole design. I was happy with the first one, in Palestrina Knot Stitch, but I thought I’d try something else.

Wheatear Stitch is a pretty stitch, and it fits well within the textural theme of the design, but it’s too broad – however hard I tried – to deal with all the wiggles around the edge of the vine leaves. After some thought, I realised that keeping some consistency in the “background” – the branches, the leaves, the tendrils – would enable the birds to shine.

That insight helped me with the tendrils and the stems for the vine leaves, When I was first stitching them, I used different stitches, and different threads, and somehow the piece wasn’t hanging together. When I found a stranded cotton that matched the colour I used for the branches, and used that for the tendrils, and for the stems of the leaves and the grapes, that worked better.

The tendrils are now all in Coral Stitch, and the stems are a Feather Stitch variation. I’ve not been able to track it down, but it’s created a loose and pretty plaited effect that I’m very pleased with!

Stella’s Birds – continuing the basics

Padded satin stitch grapes - padded once sith chain and then with satin stitch

I wanted to raise the level of the grapes as they came forward – remember, part of the inspiration for this piece is carved wood, so I need to be channelling Grinling Gibbons! – so each set as I worked down the panel is more emphatic. Cretan stitch in a slightly greeny fawn at the top, chain stitch spirals in a more pinky fawn at the middle. And double padded satin stitch in a creamy colour at the bottom, light, reflective, strongly raised.

Yes, that works.

All the basics in place - branches, leaves, grapes.

So, now I have my structure in place, it’s worth pausing to look at it.

The branches run through, knitting everything together. The leaves have a little variation in colour, but using the same stitches has kept them quite calm in spite of the strong texture. And the grapes becoming stronger and more emphatic helps to create the sense of a flow through the piece.

Time now to plan the birds a little more.

Planning colours for the birds: starting with a variagated "Watercolours" thread (centre) and picking a pearl cotton and a soft cotton in blue (Bitey), pink (Stabby), and cream (Shouty)

I started with a Caron Collection “Watercolours” that I’ve had for years. That will appear in all of the birds, giving the design some unity. Notionally, of course, in terms of the original inspiration from the novel “Gentian Hill”, it’s the same bird, an analogy for the soul of a person, but I want to play a bit more with pattern and form, so the birds informally known as Bitey, Stabby, and Shouty are quite different from one another. There are pinks, yellows, and blues in the “Watercolours” thread, so I’ve picked a pearl cotton and a soft cotton in each to go together to form the central part of the birds. Other threads to be added if I feel I need them…

Stella’s Birds – Doing the Leaves..

A false start - wheatear stitch. I decided in the end to use Palestrina Knot Stitch for all three leaves.

I started with a bit of a blind alley…

My natural tendency is to barrel in with glee and use a different stitch for every element, but I am learning (somewhat belatedly, it must be admitted!) that moderation is a virtue in design as in life.

So after a couple of blind alleys – wheatear stitch doesn’t sit happily with the crinkles of the vine leaf! – I have actually been quite temperate. There are three leaves in the design, and after some thought and experimentation I’ve settled on the same stitch combination for all three of them.

I’m using some of that gorgeous Studio Flax linen thread, which has really rewarding stitch definition, so it seemed as though more knotted and twisted stitches were in order.

A leaf using Palestrina Knot Stitch and Twisted Chain Stitch

I chose to use Palestrina Knot Stitch (entered in the RSN stitch bank as Double Knot Stitch) for the outlines of all three leaves. It’s strongly textured, so it should stand up to that Portuguese Knotted Stem Stitch, and it’s flexible enough to follow all the crinkles of the vine leaves.

The same combination of Stitches, (Palestrina Knot Stitch and Twisted Chain Stitch) but a different combination of thread colours.

For the veins, I chose to use ordinary Twisted Chain Stitch, working it carefully to keep each chain stitch looking separate. Twisted Chain Stitch can be worked drifting towards Rope Stitch (this is discussed on the RSN Stitch Bank page) and indeed, in other parts of this panel I expect to use that variation.

Studio Assistant Harry has a beady eye on my vine leaves.

Stella’s Birds isn’t going to be a sampler in any formal sense. But as I push/pull between throwing every stitch in my shelf full of stitch dictionaries at it, and restricting my stitch choice in the interests of providing a bit of calm at various points in the piece, I may find myself demonstrating some of the breadth of execution available in all of them.

In all cases, however, Harry The Hound Of The Doleful Countenance has been overseeing operations!

Starting, at last, on the Lotus Flower Coat

Pile of folded pattern pieces on a varnished table, pattern envelope on top.

You might recall that a gorgeous piece of turquoise tweed came my way and provoked thoughts of a jacket or coat decorated with lotus flowers. So, not part of the “Dreams of Amarna”, but once you have an interest in something, or an attachment to a design style, it never really lets go!

Paper cutouts laid on the back piece of the jacket.

And I didn’t find myself a Twixmas project, so rather than having a small pause, I’m moving straight on. It will be worked in the hand, so it fits the challenge of not needing the place the Christmas Tree lives, and to be honest, I’ve not been finding the last few months stressful in embroidery terms (in others, yes!) and I don’t feel I need a reboot. So, onward!

Anyone who attended the ThreadTalk I did for the Embroiderers Guild, or who was reading my planning for Stella’s Birds will be familiar with my paper cutouts by now! You can see that this isn’t quite right. It looks a bit too abrupt, the spaces are maybe in the wrong places.

Final design layout: one open flower and two half open

This is altogether better. It’s not so abrupt, it’s paying heed to the botanical form while keeping to the stylised appearance of the original ancient Egyptian inspiration.

My intention is that the shapes will be filled with rows and rows of line stitches, chain stitch and feather stitch variations mainly, and at the moment I am planning to leave a line of untouched fabric showing around each of the elements. Once I have the thing finished, I can decide whether to fill in the gaps!

I’ll be using a mix of threads, too, wool, silk, cotton, some plain, some variegated.

Stella’s Birds – Starting the Embroidery..

Portugese Knotted Stem Stitch in soft Embroidery cotton

You have to start somewhere, don’t you!

Once I had finally become happy with the design for Stella’s Birds, I thought it was Time To Start.

And you may remember that I mentioned when I was working on the Jacket of Many Flowers that I have learnt, over the years, that when I’m working something like a spray or branch of flowers, leaves, and fruit, I need to start with the branches. In the past when I have started with leaves and flowers, the whole design has remained “spotty” and unconnected, and I don’t feel that I’m making progress.

Doesn't look much, does it? Branches in place, everything else only drawn in

That’s so dispiriting that these days, I do the branches first.

I’ve used soft cotton in a warm pinky-brown, and chose one of my favourite stitches, Portuguese Knotted Stem Stitch (link to the RSN stitch bank entry). It leaps forward very satisfyingly, so it didn’t take me long, once I got a chance to settle down to it, to get the branches done.

However…

I wasn’t entirely paying attention.

A gap in the branch for a birds tail..

I remembered to leave a gap for one of the bird’s tails, but not the other. And as I look at my other choices of thread, this pinky brown has no other friends. So I may decide, at a later date, to remove part of the branch stitching to allow for tails and feet.

I have a slight fear that I may even have to remove all of it. I love Portuguese Knotted Stem Stitch, but it is full of personality, and if I don’t get the balance right in the rest of the stitching it might unbalance the whole thing!

Stella’s Birds – design settled!

Suddenly much better, but a bit bare in the upper right corner.

I took my problem with Stella’s Birds to my Mam, who pointed out that grapes hang downwards from the vines. You can tell I’m no gardener, can’t you! So I turned the triangular design upside down and started playing with curved branches. That immediately began to feel better.

Then I found a Delft tile of a bird in flight (still in the vaguely mad territory of the medieval inspiration) and that unlocked the headache I was having over the feeding bird. The placings for the birds were fairly straightforward – I’m simply alternating them and placing them in the right part of the design area. The leaves and grapes were trickier, because the angles they sat at were going to matter.

Added another bunch of grapes - looks better now.

So – remember my Thread Talk? – back to paper cutouts! – I started playing around with cutouts of the leaves and bunches of grapes, to get the spacing to make a bit more sense, and finally decided to have three bunches of grapes, and three leaves, to go with the three birds (who have now been informally named Bitey Bird, Stabby Bird and Shouty Bird!).

At which point, I found myself quoting from My Fair Lady : “By George, she’s got it!”.

So, time to do a tracing, transfer it to my fabric, and then also transfer it to a piece of paper so that I could play with balancing the solid bits and more open bits of the design.

This is about as far as I can go without having the actual stitched textures in front of me. Solid emphasis on the vines, the grapes, and the leading edges of the wings – yes, I’m sure about that. Other details – maybe filling in half of the vine leaves, some of the details on the birds – they can wait.

Time to get stitching!

Starting to plan Aethelflaed’s Border

Dog roses and beer barrels 2

As I get nearer to stitching the border for the Aethelflaed Embroidery, it is starting to become imperative that I make some plans for it.

Dog roses growing from beer barrels 1

This is why I started to work on painting, originally – not to become a painter, but simply to make design mistakes more quickly and easily than in stitches!

As I began thinking about it, and since I am conceiving of four panels which will between them cover four now lesser-known characters in politics and religion during the medieval period, I came to the conclusion that I should keep some themes across the four.

A collage of beer barrels, Not having found any nearby, these are from Asterix!

I’m keeping the background of trellis couched laid silk, for a start, and it will be the same blue, although I may make a change to the order of dark and light in the trellis couching itself.

Bee skep designs

The dog roses I used for William Marshall will appear in Aethelflaed’s border as well. My researches haven’t turned up any specific flora associated with Aethelflaed, but there’s a tale that the Viking attack on Chester was routed with boiling beer and angry bees, so I’m experimenting with beer barrels and bee skeps.

Two garnet centred gold cross designs patterned after one in the Staffordshire Hoard

And there will be a different cross at the cardinal points of the embroidery. These first efforts are patterned after sketches I’ve made at some of the exhibitions I’ve visited, showing elements of the Staffordshire Hoard and other items. Garnet and gold is a combination very strongly associated with the Anglo Saxons, and I’m having a lot of fun playing with details.

Vague designs of a curved edged, garnet centred cross

Some of the ideas are not really working, others I think definitely are.

I’m certainly not yet ready to assemble a finished design. But at least there may be some signs of something to work with, and after all, I’ve still got a few weeks of thinking time while I do the laid and trellis couched border!

Back To Stella’s Birds

The design inspired by Elizabeth Goudge’s “Gentian Hill” is continuing to give me some difficulties. The stitchery itself will be inspired by Mountmellick work, although it’s not going to be anything even close to classical Mountmellick. You didn’t think it would, did you?

Branch to support the birds. Not quite right

I was planning to use a vaguely medieval flavour for the birds, so they’ll be a bit mad, all curlicues and twiddles. The ones above are looking promising, I think. I will need to consider balancing solid stitching and line stitching, but that can wait until the design itself is settled. Keeping them mad once I start stitching may be a bit of a challenge, but we’ll see.

Another attempt at Stella's Birds, this time in fibre tip

The branches they’ll be sitting on are worse. I’ve been trying two different styles – a rectangular design, and a triangular design. Both of them look a bit clumsy, and they’re somehow unsatisfying. Granted, neither of them is the whole design, the rectangular one is lacking the birds, and the triangular one is lacking curlicues and any sense of spacing. I’ll get there in the end, but it’s going to take a while.

What I am pleased with is that I’m getting better at doing scrappy, fast, thinking-with-a-pen drawings. Even a year ago, I don’t think I’d have had the freedom I felt as I was doing these.

Which is just to tell you, it’s never too late to start on drawing – or any other skill!

Next page →